Kinnareemas
Thong Hong subdistrict in Phrae province's Muang district has long been an established center for the traditional art of dyeing fabric indigo, which has brought the village a good deal of national interest.
Local residents have been able to earn a living by producing these goods, as well as running shop houses along the village's main thoroughfare. These stores offer a wide variety of garments for men and women featuring this impressive deep blue hue, including fabrics for around the home, as well as souvenirs. This activity has certainly helped to boost economic prospects within the village.
The 'real deal'
Among the group of shop houses located within the village is a community enterprise offering items that differ from the goods on offer elsewhere, which have proven to be extremely popular. The Thung Charoen Natural Indigo Dyeing Community Enterprise is in fact the only manufacturer to offer goods produced in hand woven cotton, dyed using a natural form of indigo.
“We consist of locals, who have a strong desire to preserve our ancestors' wisdom,” says Prapapan Sritrai, the 55-year-old leader of the enterprise, which was established in 2005 with the aim of reviving traditional methods of dyeing using natural indigo.
At present, most residents of Thung Hong use machine woven fabric and a chemical form of indigo to produce their wares. The only aspect that includes examples of their own handiwork is the production of the patterns used and sewing.
Revival underway
Prapapan says that in days gone by villagers would produce their goods using natural resources and traditional methods, which were passed down to them through their Tai Puan ancestors, who migrated to the area from Laos during the 1830s.
These early pioneers developed their dyeing methods for a practical purpose since the female members of the ethnic group wear traditional costumes made from the vivid dyed fabric. Since settling in the area, one generation to the next has passed on this form of folk wisdom in a bid to preserve it as an important part of the group's cultural heritage.
Nevertheless, the most recent generations abandoned the traditional method of dyeing as soon as machine-woven cotton fabrics and chemical-based dyes were introduced in the village during the late 1960s. While this allowed for an increase in production, it signaled a demise in the use of the traditional methods.
“It would be inconsiderate to ignore the wisdom of our ancestors,” says Prapapan. “That's why I want to prolong the traditional methods of producing indigo dyed goods.”
According to Prapapan, there are two main areas in which the traditional methods need re-stimulating – the production of hand woven cotton thread, and the natural form of indigo dyeing.
Fortunately, several elderly members of the community are still able to weave and dye fabrics in the traditional way. One such lady is Prapapan's mother – 82-year-old Saeng Phethan – who is still in reasonable health and is able to teach younger members of the community how to spin cotton, weave the cotton using a loom, and prepare natural indigo dyes for the dyeing process.
“I feel proud that my skills are still needed these days and I'm happy to pass on these skills to whoever is interesting in picking them up,” she says.
Sharing responsibilities
Prapapan says that the community enterprise has expanded significantly, growing from seven members when it was launched to 35 members today. Each member of the group shares responsibility in developing the initiative based on their individual skills.
She says the production process by hand involves several aspects, such as spinning the yarn, dyeing the cotton thread, weaving the cotton, producing the patterns and sewing. Some members of the group take the raw materials home with them so that they can produce the goods at home during their free time.
They generally produces goods to order, so that the output matches the requirement of the group's customers. The group receives various orders for goods such as bags, bedclothes, blankets, dolls, dresses, shirts, various forms of souvenirs and tablecloths. However, the group does not produce all these items from scratch. For example, the cotton and fermented indigo dye, which is produced from hom (or indigo) leaves (Baphicacanthus cusia) are provided by community groups located in nearby villages.
The most complicated aspect is the preparation process that takes place ahead of the dyeing, as well as the dyeing process itself, since it requires experienced personal to carry it out properly. The dyeing procedure is actually carried out within Prapapan's home, which also acts as the project's main base.
Before the actual dyeing process can get underway, the fermented indigo dye first needs to be mixed with some other ingredients before again being fermented for a few more days.
To start the dyeing process, the cotton threads or fabric first need to be soaked in the dye. Once they have been thoroughly soaked, they are then partially dried before being placed in a plastic bag for a few hours before undergoing the same process for four more rounds. This process produces the rich, dark blue hue that dates back to the beginnings of the Tai Puan group.
Historic value
“When people approach us, vendors have a duty to tell prospective customers the stories behind our craft, including the production process by hand, as well as traditional aspects,” says Prapapan, adding that it is important for would be buyers to understand these points in order to understand the true value of the craft.
Prapapan says that producing the goods by hand requires a good deal of time and patience, so it's no real surprise either that goods produced using this method sell for two to three times the cost of chemically dyed products made from machine woven fabric. Prapapan's products range in price from 100 to 12,000 baht (US$3.01-3.61).
Civic pride
Over the past five years, the group has made a distinctive effort towards reviving traditional processes and has even been recognized by the provincial authorities.
Prapapan's home has become one of the province's learning centers on local wisdom, while the building receives lots of visitors from school and college students, along with members of the public. She has organized an exhibition area on site, where learners can try natural indigo dyeing for themselves.
Thung Charoen Natural Indigo Dyeing Community Enterprise opens daily. Its products are on display and are only available at the center. Group visits can be arranged by appointment only in advance.
For further information about Thung Charoen Natural Indigo Dyeing Community Enterprise, call Tel: +66 (0)54 521 709.
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